Farallon Islands: A Voyage of Purpose and Discovery
Early on the morning of January 18, 2025, the sailing vessel Francesca slipped away from Marina Village in Alameda, heading for the remote Farallon Islands. It wasn’t just any trip—this was a mission with purpose. Skipper Larry Hall, joined by co-skipper Harmon Shragge, led a capable crew that included Arzen Joy, John Daughters, Katie Blaesing, Don Bauer, and three researchers from Point Blue Conservation Science: Allison Yan (going out), Amanda Reardan, and Ben Peterson (returning to the mainland). Together, they were tasked with ferrying vital supplies and personnel to one of the most pristine wildlife sanctuaries on the West Coast.
The Farallon Islands are more than just rugged rocks rising from the sea. Located 27 miles west of San Francisco, this group of seven rocky islands totals around 211 acres. They were of cultural significance to the first peoples of the Bay Area, some of whom reportedly called them the “Islands of the Dead.” Their current name, given in the 17th century, derives from the Spanish word farallon, meaning “cliff.” The islands also have an eerie reputation; they’ve been nicknamed the “Devil’s Teeth” due to the treacherous, jagged rocks that have claimed many a ship over the centuries.
Access to the islands is tightly controlled, as they are closed to the public to protect the delicate ecosystem. Only researchers and scientists are permitted to set foot on the islands, which are home to breeding and feeding grounds for at least 25 endangered or threatened species. The islands’ unique environment supports 36 marine mammal species—including blue, gray, and humpback whales, harbor seals, elephant seals, and Pacific white-sided dolphins—as well as one of the last populations of threatened Stellar sea lions. They are also home to 390 species of fish and over 330 species of invertebrates. Additionally, the islands host one of the most significant white shark populations on the planet, drawn by the abundant seal population. Interestingly, these waters are often referred to as the “Red Triangle,” a hotspot for white shark activity extending between the Farallons, Bodega Bay, and Monterey Bay.
In return for their efforts, the Francesca crew enjoyed a rare opportunity: a guided tour of this extraordinary, off-limits place.
Setting Sail
The day started early, with the crew gathering at 6:00 AM to load the vessel. It was a chilly, overcast morning, but spirits were high as Francesca cast off by 6:45 AM. Motor sailing was the order of the day, thanks to light winds, but the beauty of the sunrise over the Oakland-Alameda estuary more than made up for it.
By 11:45 AM, the crew reached the Farallons, well ahead of schedule. After securing the mooring, they transferred to the island via tender, a process that included disinfecting their clothing to protect the fragile ecosystem. For an hour, they explored the island, marveling at the abundance of wildlife. Elephant seal pups rested alongside their mothers, while cliffs teemed with murres. It was a once-in-a-lifetime experience.
Afterward, aboard Francesca, the team circumnavigated the islands, taking in their dramatic beauty from the water before beginning the journey home. They returned to the marina by 7:00 PM, tired but satisfied. Unloading and cleaning the vessel was a breeze with such a well-coordinated crew.
Exploring the Farallon Islands: An Unforgettable Adventure
Upon our arrival at the Farallon Islands, the first task was to secure our vessel, Francesca, to a mooring. To my surprise, this process went much more smoothly than I anticipated. Once Francesca was safely tied up, the Farallon’s tender came out to meet us. With the tender they would ferry our crew and all their gear and provisions to the island. They would then reload Francesca with gear and waste to be brought back to the mainland.
As the dinghy made its way to the shore, we were greeted by a special crane designed to hoist the small boat out of the water. Once safely on land, we underwent a necessary disinfection process before being allowed to explore the island. It was clear that this remote spot had strict protocols in place to protect its delicate ecosystem.
We began our tour by walking along a charming stone path, leading us through the island’s rugged terrain. Our first stop was an encounter that truly took my breath away: a group of elephant seals, recently having given birth. Watching the mothers with their pups was an incredibly moving experience, offering a rare glimpse into the tenderness of these majestic creatures.
As we continued our trek along the rocky cliffs, we were met with the sight of Murres—thousands of them—covering the sheer cliffs in a bustling, almost surreal display of life. These birds, known for their striking black and white plumage, create an overwhelming visual spectacle, making it impossible to look away.
Next, we encountered an unexpected but delightful sight: the Farallon Island salamander, a species unique to this island chain. It was a privilege to see this rare creature in its natural habitat, adding another layer of wonder to our journey.
Our exploration then took us to a quiet cove, where sea lions were frolicking in the water, their playful behavior adding a lighthearted tone to our adventure. The sounds of their calls echoed across the cove, a reminder of the vibrant wildlife that calls the Farallons home.
All the while, the vistas surrounding us were absolutely breathtaking. The dramatic cliffs, the vast expanse of the Pacific Ocean, and the raw beauty of the island created a stunning backdrop for our entire journey. It was a day filled with awe, discovery, and a deep appreciation for the incredible creatures and landscapes that make the Farallon Islands such a special place.
A Farewell to the Farallon Islands: A Journey Around the Shoreline
After about an hour on the island, it was time to leave—a farewell that came all too soon. We boarded the tender once again, and the crane hoisted us up over the cliffs and lowered us back into the ocean. The brief return to Francesca felt bittersweet, but the promise of more adventure kept spirits high. Once on board, the crew quickly got to work, transferring all the gear from the cockpit into the cabin as we prepared for our trip home.
As we made ready to depart, there was a slight change in our crew. Allison would be staying behind, while Ben, who was returning to the mainland, would be joining us for the journey back.
Before setting sail, Ben offered an exciting proposition: “We could circumnavigate the island, unless you’re in a rush to head home.” Naturally, I agreed without hesitation. Ben was thrilled; he’d long wanted to see the island from the water. With a course set around the island’s perimeter, we began motoring along the shoreline, taking in the stunning views of the cliffs, now even more majestic from the perspective of the sea.
The cliffs were teeming with Murres, their black-and-white forms dotting the rock faces in huge numbers, creating a living tapestry against the backdrop of the ocean. As we moved along, we slowed the boat as we approached a small bay where the seals had been resting earlier. It was a peaceful moment, watching them from the water, the rhythm of the sea providing a calming soundtrack to the scene.
We continued to motor slowly, taking in the beauty of the arches along the coast, which looked like massive keyholes carved by centuries of wind and water. The power of the sea was palpable as the waves crashed against the rocks, and we couldn’t help but marvel at the forces of nature at work. It was an awe-inspiring reminder of the island’s raw beauty and the untamed power of the ocean.
By the time we circumnavigated the island and turned toward our course back home, I felt a renewed sense of wonder—grateful for the chance to experience the Farallon Islands from both land and sea.
Sailing Home: A Serene Return with a Touch of Magic
Our sail home was peaceful, though the cool evening air carried a distinct chill, reminding us that the day was coming to an end. Extra blankets were a welcome comfort as we huddled together, sharing good conversation, with the calm waters guiding us back toward the Golden Gate. There was a quiet sense of contentment as we reflected on the day’s adventures—the wildlife, the cliffs, and the beauty of the Farallon Islands all fresh in our minds.
As we neared the entrance to the bay, the sky began to paint itself in hues of orange, pink, and purple, signaling an incredible sunset. Just as the sun dipped below the horizon, I caught sight of something truly magical—the elusive green flash. For a brief, fleeting moment, the last rays of the sun refracted through the atmosphere, casting a bright green glow across the sky. It’s a rare phenomenon, and if you blink, you’ll miss it—but I was lucky enough to witness it in all its brilliance. It was the perfect end to an unforgettable day.
We approached the dock around 7:00 PM, ahead of schedule, which allowed for a calm, unhurried arrival. With the sail down and Francesca safely tied up, we quickly unloaded the gear and prepared the boat for her next adventure. The day had been filled with moments of wonder, and as we finished up, I couldn’t help but feel grateful for the incredible experiences that would stay with me long after the sail was over.
Weather and Conditions
The weather was cooperative overall. Light winds of 5 to 7 knots and gentle rolling seas made for smooth sailing. Visibility stretched to 10 miles, and while the morning was cool and gray, the sun came out as they neared the islands. Temperatures stayed in the 50s, brisk but manageable.
Teamwork Makes the Dream Work
If Francesca is a reliable workhorse, her crew was the perfect team to complement her. Months of preparation paid off as everyone worked in sync, from loading supplies to cleaning up at the end of the day. Their attentiveness and camaraderie were evident throughout the voyage.
Unforgettable Moments
Highlights of the day included navigating the 2-3 knot current out the Golden Gate and the challenge of the tide on the return leg. Wildlife sightings added magic to the trip, with porpoises joining the seals, murres, and elephant seals in making the day memorable. Touring and circumnavigating the Farallons was the cherry on top.
Looking Ahead
This cruise set a high bar for future voyages. There were no major challenges, and the trip underscored the value of careful preparation and strong teamwork. Moving forward, the team may consider small adjustments to enhance comfort during long journeys, but the formula is clearly working.
A Word of Thanks
Larry Hall couldn’t have been prouder of his crew. “If I could sail with this team every time, I’d be thrilled,” he said. He also took a moment to acknowledge regular crew members who couldn’t join this trip, expressing hope that they’ll be part of similar adventures in the future.
For the crew of Francesca, this voyage was more than just a trip to the Farallon Islands. It was a testament to teamwork, a chance to contribute to vital conservation efforts, and an adventure they’ll never forget.
By Larry Hall
January 19, 2025